From precious velvets to compact wools, authentic shearlings, textured and quilted embroideries, autumn winter 20/21 pre-collections boast all the ingredients to wrap up in warm and luxurious materials.
The light touch of Bouton Renaud velvets
The jacquard velvets at this French specialist are focusing on transparent longhaired lurex yarns and motifs reflecting the excitement for geometric patterns… as long as they retain their feminine quality. Behind these extraordinary woven fabrics, which integrate three yarns, are silk, of course, and a deep know-how bridging industry and artisanship. “There’s an endless demand for fantasy in this product family. Each development is a subtle trade-off between the given requirements and a final result with no compromise in quality,” underlines Gilles Renaud, CEO of Bouton Renaud. The overall result is as light as permitted by the mousseline ground and slightly elongated lurex hairs giving the fabrics their warm appearance. Colours and their various combinations are drawn from Première Vision’s international range.
© Bouton Renaud
© Bouton Renaud
Botto Giuseppe & Figli S.P.A.: the enveloping softness of combed wools
Along with motion effects and three-dimensional structures, an enveloping softness is one of the leading themes this Italian combed-wool specialist is exploring. The collection makes way for compact and velvety wools with a Saxony look, worked in warm and natural tones. Double-faced carded wools are softened for thick dense cardigans.
Combed yarn-blends and cashmeres strive for an almost ethereal lightness. Brushed wool and silk blends and precious bouclés set the scene for full jackets.
© Botto Giuseppe & Figli
Inducol: warm and felted shearling
Collections here favour shearling lamb and sheep skins. What’s especially new are natural finishes applied to wools, while irregular loops, felted and wild aspects target a warm and comfortable wardrobe.
Conversely, Nappa and natural finishes enhance materials with waxy, washed and vintage surfaces. The colour palette is a quite wintry one, elaborated in appealing plays on two-tones, irregular nuances and prints.
Rial: firm, authentic skins
Getting back to the nobility of skins and the heart of their craft, France’s Rial, a specialist in shearling lamb, set its sights on firmer skins and dense materials. There’s a move away from suppleness and fineness, and an increased focus on the shearling lambs of aviator jackets. Natural shades, gold and oak are musts. Long-haired wools are slightly whitened. Finishes go for a vintage look, or draw on classic Nappa and velvet treatments.
Pact Europact: bringing on voluminous textures and decoration
At France’s Pact Europact, decoration on fabrics and leathers is zeroing in on volume and plays on raised effects. Two avenues are explored in this vein.
First is a universe of graphic motifs in warm and metallic colours, with perforated leather applications, voluminous metallic bourdon yarns and metallic transfer paper decorations. Meantime, embroideries are set off, and polyamide yarns create subtly irregular loops. The palette evokes brass and metallic burgundies on white and pale grounds and, in a more restrained vein, a golden look.
The collection also explores the timeless beauty of jeans, with laser-cut and perforated denim pieces applied to leather bases. Here, the same attention is paid to thickening quiltings and highlighting embroidery motifs. Along with blue and metallic blue shades, fluorescent accents are also found.
© Pact Europact
The 20/21 Autumn-Winter pre-collections can be discovered at Blossom Première Vision, next 3 and 4 July at the Carreau du Temple in Paris.