The winter 2020-21 pre-collections presented at Blossom Première Vision confirm the prolific convergences of technology and aesthetic appeal. Creative cross-fertilizations between fashion and sport can be found at the earliest stages of material developments and continue on into accessory collections.
Serates: performance backed by nature
This winter, Italy’s high-performance fabrics specialist is introducing three textile breakthroughs for both sports and fashion. The first, Terma, is designed to improve a textile’s thermal performance by retaining and stabilizing the body’s own internal temperature. The process uses the anti-bacterial and insulating properties found in coffee grounds and an additive integrated directly into the yarn.
For several years, Serates has been expanding the use of its textile developments well beyond active-sports applications. Their elaboration of colours, visual effects and personalised developments are specifically geared for sports-oriented fashions.
Two new innovations in the field of sustainable development will also be presented at the show: Degri biodegradable fabrics made from polyamide 6.6, developed in collaboration with Amni Soul Eco (Rhodia Solvay Group), and Bio Original bio-sourced synthetics made from castor oil-based biopolymers from Italian manufacturer Fulgar.
Limonta: women’s ready-to-wear infused with sport developments.
From plains to prints, Limonta constantly furthers the links between fashion and sportswear. The Limonta collection is a perfect illustration, with men’s and women’s plains in synthetic polyamide and polyester bases or natural cotton and cotton/wool blends. Finishings and coatings draw their inspiration from the performance features of sport clothing (membranes, windproof, water-repellent, wax, etc.), now adapted for urban and fashion parkas.
Textile constructions result in two product families: fantasy-oriented women’s sports fabrics and women’s sports products more specifically designed for jacket weights. Integrated in weaving and finishing, Limonta offers a wide range of traditional and inkjet printing for these ranges. On the luxury ready-to-wear side, the manufacturer will present the graphic atmospheres of its fancy woven fabrics (colour wovens and yarn-dyed jacquards). Performance here is also eco-friendly, with fluorocarbon-neutral water-repellent treatments, the use of recycled polyamide (Econil) yarns made from salvaged fishing nets and polyesters made from plastic bottles.
Milior : comfort teams up with luxury
Technology and fantasy are central to the new 20/21 winter products from Milior. The Italian weaver is betting particularly on its stretch and double-stretch synthetic fabrics, including textiles made from recycled fibres.
The alliance of performance and fashion visuals comes through in two of Milior’s collections. B by Milior features openly luxurious fabrics and fancy wovens. Double wovens in blends of wool and luxury fibres are worked in neutral hues enhanced with shine and bright colours, in weights suitable for jackets and dresses. M by Milior, a knit collection, directly targets the casual and leisure markets, with the more fantasy-oriented products enlivened by stunning visual effects.
Cuirs du futur : A denim inspiration enhanced with the comfort of stretch
Stretch leathers are at the heart of the offer at Cuirs du futur, a French tannery and manufacturer, for uses bridging the worlds of fashion and sports apparel.
This season, two aspects in particular are developed on stretch lamb bases.
The range of denim effects comprises both whitened and slightly worn items, and vaporous chiné velvets. The denim effect is produced by a bleaching rising from blue or anthracite elastane cotton plain-wovens. These products are typically intended for urban and sportswear uses. More refined and subtle chinés target higher-end clients. A more luxurious line features metallic decoration, worn reptile grains, worn effects on scales and geometric aspects.
In terms of performance, the main focus is on elasticity and machine-washability, which is considered a prerequisite for the vast majority of the products on offer.
Société choletaise de fabrication (SCF) : Braids, laces, and technical endings and sleevings get the nod from fashion
The accessories developed by France’s SCF demonstrate the prolific interaction between technical innovation and fantasy, down to the details of personalization. The new collection will feature no fewer than 28 boards to showcase the various universes (ready-to-wear, leather goods, sports, footwear, decoration, water sports, etc.) in which shoelaces, galloons, straps, jacquards, cords, drawcords, lace, princess braids, soutache braid, trimming laces and more, produced by weaving, braiding or the use of lace looms, are available. The season sees a particular profusion of flat braids, where the manufacturer exploits the full richness of colour combinations. The same emphasis is placed on the colour compositions obtained by assembling several coloured braids.
Protective straps also venture into fantasy, without sacrificing strength.
Several products are emerging from the sports world, finding a broader appeal that even reaches to city wear.
Fluorescent sport laces adopt the slightly larger, tubular flat braid to suit sneakers or sweatshirt ties. Closed and open metal, acetate and vinyl tips and bobbles enrich the range of finishings.
Heat-shrinkable sheathing is also becoming a must for drawstring finishings. In addition to their many product ranges, the manufacturer offers 1,800 colours and on-demand colour development.