At the heart of new developments lies eco-responsibility – and the topic is giving rise to lively discussions! Explore the responsible collections and initiatives dreamed up by our exhibitors, with a spotlight on 3 weavers highlighted by the Première Vision Smart Creation* platform: Clerici Tesssuto, TexModa and Albini Group.
Come and meet them on December 11 and 12!
Clerici Tessuto: a wide range of solutions for responsible luxury products
A leading producer of silk fabrics, the Italian manufacturer is extending its eco-responsible commitments to all its textile families, from wool to bio-sourced synthetics.
In 2019, Clerici Tessuto adopted a commitment charter aimed at providing the luxury sector with the broadest possible choice of solutions for selecting eco-responsible materials. A mapping of the different materials used along with their respective environmental impacts are made available to brands and partners.
This of course includes silk, the Italian weaver’s favoured fibre, and guarantees complete traceability of its production in China, from the certified organic cultivation of mulberry trees to respecting the rights of the local workforce involved in this labour-intensive production. With an average yield of 1kg of silk for 30 mulberry trees, these farms, free of crop inputs and pesticides, have an enviably low carbon footprint.
The manufacturer is also continuing to invest in the supply of artificial and synthetic fibres with a lower environmental impact in terms of water consumption, recyclability, carbon footprint, etc.
This list is likely to grow. In terms of viscose, it already includes Lenzing’s FSC-certified Eco Vero yarns, which are made from renewable wood and consume 50% less water than standard qualities, and biodegradable Cupro from Bemberg.
In terms of synthetics, Clerici Tessuto proposes recycled PET from both New Life and from Seaqual’s ocean-cleaning plastics program. Evo Nylon made from castor beans broadens the range of renewable polyesters.
In addition to silk, the natural fibre offer includes organic cotton qualities with low water consumption. Their wool and cashmere blends are already guaranteed organic and mulesing-free, to safeguard animal welfare. The non-toxicity of the dyes applied to these fabrics is verified by Oekotex certification. The manufacturer also relies on the natural properties of highly renewable linen and hemp fibres.
TexModa: a more profound detox of fantasy fabrics
This Italian manufacturer takes a strategic 360-degree eco-responsible approach to its entire production. From reducing chemical inputs to recycling natural and synthetic materials, their status report is promising.
In an effort to bring its fantasy-fabric production up to the standards demanded by sustainable and responsible fashions, the Italian manufacturer is stepping up its efforts – and the initial results are quantifiable. Its voluntary commitment has garnered the company Global Recycle Standard (GRS) certification. This guarantees the full traceability of the recycled materials used in all stages of production, encompassing respect for both employees’ rights and environmental issues (such as the release of pollutants into the environment, limited water use, restricted water and energy consumption, etc.) and the management of chemical products.
Its production of carded wool and blended fabrics made from recycled fibres thus shows an encouraging annual result of 22 metric tons of reused fibres. Saved resources included 60 million kilowatts of energy and 500,000 cubic metres of water.
Some 650 metric tons of chemical compounds and 300 metric tons of dyes were ultimately eliminated. The release of sulphur dioxide into the atmosphere was reduced by 1,000 metric tons, while CO2 emissions were decreased by 18,000 metric tons. Most finishing units are also equipped with a water recycling system.
In 2016, the manufacturer became a member of Greenpeace’s Detox program. The goal is to eliminate 11 groups of hazardous chemicals by next year. This is already the case for 8 of them.
Albini Group: transparency throughout the production chain
The recent environmental performance of its cotton fabric finishing plant in Brebbia reflects the company’s more ambitious objectives in terms of environmental impact and transparency.
The savings obtained at Albini’s finishing plant in Brebbia, Italy, are a measure of the usefulness of a rigorous eco-responsible policy. In 2018, water consumption was reduced by 30%, from 274.1 l per kg of treated fabric to 190 l/kg. Electricity use per metre has been cut to 7%. Meanwhile, the company’s ratio of self-generated electricity has risen to 70%. The amount of waste generated has been reduced by 46% while waste reuse has reached 99%.
The recycling of textile waste is also well underway, with its reused volume attaining 31%. The Brebbia site is in accordance with the recommendations of two complementary commitments:
– ISO 14001:2015 is a standard for environmental management systems, and comprises savings in resources and the use of chemical substances.
– The ZDHC program’s objectives for the phase-out of hazardous chemicals have already been endorsed by more than 107 companies, including Kering Group, Burberry and Levi’s.
In terms of the Italian group overall, the company’s clear objective is to optimise a transparent supply chain of raw materials and textiles. The complete traceability program (from farm to finished product) put in place by Oritain, a specialist in scientific verification, for US-grown Supima cotton, is a step in this direction. In Egypt, Albini is also working on transparent farming as part of the Egyptian Cotton Project supported by UNIDO (United Nations Industrial Development Organization) and BCI (Better Cotton Initiative). According to the weaver, the share of organic cotton and Tencel Lyocell fibres is constantly on the rise in all the fabric families they bring to market. An in-house team is now specifically assigned to identify the most rigorously eco-responsible fibres.
*Since its founding in 2015, the Smart Creation study and information platform has been promoting exhibitors’ responsible initiatives, highlighting a new generation of values combining creativity, innovation and sustainability.
Its goal is to create new opportunities and new competitive advantages for the entire creative fashion industry, accompanied by business development opportunities.