At the heart of many of the most appealing collections, sustainable advances are taking a variety of different roads in the move to responsible fashion. With commitments to cotton traceability, a widespread use of recycled materials and the preservation of natural and fossil resources, weavers are actively engaged.
Luxury Jersey adopts recycled polyamides
New generations of recycled polyamide yarns have been successfully integrated into the sophisticated knits at Italy’s Luxury Jersey. The collection being unveiled at Blossom Première Vision puts these new developments front and centre with several fabrics made using QNOVA from Fulgar Yarn. This 6.6 polyamide is made from 99% recycled polyamide in the pre-consumer phase, i.e. before it gets to the final consumer. Fulgar has turned to a mechanical transformation process to reconstitute the polymers that will give birth to the new yarns. And their lightness, breathability and shine properties are ready to rival those of the best classic yarns.
Actively engaged in bringing its supplies and production processes into compliance, Luxury Jersey has announced its forthcoming certification from the Forest Stewardship Council regarding the sustainable nature of the forests from which the cellulosic fibres in its viscose fabrics are derived.
Hausammann & Moos: Full GOTS certification for premium cotton
A Swiss specialist in shirt-weight plains and colour-wovens, Hausammann & Moos is showcasing cottons made according to GOTS-certified processes.
The Global Organic Textile Standard certification by the ICEA (Institute for Ethical and Environmental Certification) aims to provide a standard that guarantees consumers that organic textile products are obtained in compliance with strict environmental and social standards, at all production stages: from harvesting natural fibres in the field to successive processing steps, right up to labelling the end product.
Hausammann & Moos Organic textiles enjoy a certification that covers the entire production circuit: from the purchase of raw organic yarns from GOTS certified producers, to GOTS certified dyeing and weaving, to finishing operations undertaken exclusively in GOTS certified establishments. Even the transport and storage of GOTS cotton spun-yarns are protected from contamination by special packaging and organic-only zones.
Debs Textile: recycled compositions and waterless dyes
Debs is introducing a colourful ecological finish to its collections of synthetic and blended silkies. The Japanese manufacturer relies on waterless dyeing and printing to drastically lower its environmental impact.
Called Air Dye, the method restricts the finishing process to the operation of a single machine and eliminates conventional finishing treatments (washing, drying, etc.) that consume a lot of water and energy. Compared to traditional processes, this means a 95% reduction in water consumption, 86% reduction in energy consumption and 84% reduction in greenhouse gas emissions. The manufacturer estimates that 170 litres of water are saved in the elaboration of a dress textile. But does the result rise to the challenge? Without a doubt, confirms the manufacturer.
Air Dye has both sides of the textile world covered – from stretch fabrics to delicate silks. In terms of restitution, colour blending and absorption, the process is more effective than the top inkjet and sublimation printing techniques. In keeping with this innovation, Debs is injecting its collections with new fabrics made from certified recycled polyester fibres (GRS), and Cupro blends, whose maker, Bemberg, is also GRS-certified.
The Albini group beefs up transparency in the fashion industry
Albini is meeting the need for transparency and fashion ethics via the supply and processing chain of American Supima cotton.
A partnership with the Supima organization and Oritain, a scientific research firm, has made possible the complete traceability of Supima cotton products, from cultivation to final consumer. The identification of the original biological imprint of the fibre makes it possible to trace any alterations, blends and replacements that have occurred throughout the processing stages and guarantee, at all stages, the fibre’s authenticity.
Toray Ultrasuede BX : a total independence from oil on the horizon
Already recognized with a Première Vision Award 2018 for successfully introducing a recycled polyester blend it its nonwoven Ultrasuede HP, Japan’s Toray group is staying the course towards total independence of its production from fossil materials. The roadmap involves the ramp-up of plant-based polyester and polyurethane and their 100% use in the production of Ultrasuede BX. To date, the plant proportion in an Ultrasuede BX comes from the processing of sugar cane, and constitutes 30% of the product. Lightweight, soft to the touch, breathable, easy to cut and car for, this product is winning over the worlds of fashion, sport and accessories, including shoes and leather goods.
Canepa expands its range of sustainable materials
As part of a thoroughly updated collection, the Italian weaver is introducing a new range of technical fabrics for ultra-contemporary fashions alongside its precious silkies, with eco-responsible yarns and fibres.
The new materials have been developed by its specially dedicated division, Canepa Green lab.
For winter 2020-21, the range of materials used spans from silk to GRS-certified recycled polyester yarns, to GOTS cotton yarns and organic wools.
These ethical ingredients are found in both jacquards and prints, with the manufacturer ensuring the sustainability of each phase of fabric production.
At Beppetex, a highly supervised use of water
When it comes to its use of water and industrial waste, Italian cotton maker Beppetex has no margin for error. The production site of this division of the Gaspare Tronconi group is located in the heart of the Medio Olona natural park.
Dyeing and finishing operations are supplied by water pumped from the ground. At the end of the production chain, the water is filtered in an in-house sanitation station before being returned to the Olona River. The water purification is subject to the strictest legal requirements.
At the same time, the manufacturer is maintaining its supply of GOTS-certified cotton and preparing to integrate the global ZDHC program, designed to foster safer chemical management in the textile and fashion industry.